I've had requests for this recipe, having mentioned it in Newsletter No. 39A. It appears a few search engines have been asked to search on the word "goulash" or "goulash soup" and we've then been contacted. Somewhere I read that Gulyäs (goulash) is one of the leading recipes used in the United States. It rivals spaghetti as an ethnic favorite. Unless of Austrian or Hungarian descent, however, few people know of the goulash counterpart - goulash soup, a favorite European dish.
Gulyässuppe has an ancient origin. It comes from the steppes of Russia, where Magyar (and other tribal groups) carried dried meat with them tied to the harness of their horses. Legend tells us that meat was also fastened under saddles so it would be tenderized. When they wished to eat, they built a fire over which they hung a kettle. Meat and water were added to the kettle, along with salt and what ever wild herbs or onions were available. This was simmered for hours. In its thickened form, using larger pieces of meat, it was gulyäs (goulash), in its thinner form with more liquid, it was gulyäs suppe. (Note: my wife makes a tasty lunch-time soup out of leftover Goulash, by adding beef bouillon and a few other ingredients to taste.) After peppers were introduced into Hungary during the Turkish invasions, they were sun-dried into paprika and added to the traditional gulyäs and suppe, replacing expensive black pepper. Onions, lard, garlic and paprika became Hungarian staples and were later incorporated in this as well as other Hungarian cuisine.
The following recipe is from a cookbook mentioned below, via my wife's kitchen, and takes advantage of modern ingredients and Berghold family tastes. It will appeal to most American tastes and is not difficult to prepare. Potatoes can be eliminated and the soup served only with bread or crackers, or no carbohydrates if desirous of cutting same. Likewise, any non-cholesterol oil, such as canola or olive, can replace butter or lard. Pinched dumplings (nockerln) or noodles can also replace potatoes [to make nockerln, use 3/4 cup flour, 1 egg, salt, and a little water, if necessary; make a stiff dough and drop small pieces into the soup. When they rise to the surface, they are done.] To really enjoy this soup, serve with a cold European bean salad, home-baked bread and a strong Hungarian red wine like Egri Bikaver (Bull's blood of Eger). If you can also forget your diet, have a second course of cabbage, bean, turnip or potato strudel and then follow with a fruit strudel dessert. Gastronomic heaven!
- 1 lb. beef, cubed (trim all fat)
- 1 lb. onions, chopped fine
- 1 lb. potatoes, peeled and cubed
- 1/3 cup carrots, grated
- 3Tbsp. shortening, butter, cooking oil or fat (Hungarians used 3 Tbsp. lard)
- 4 Tbsp. flour
- 2-1/2 Tbsp. sweet Hungarian (Szeged) paprika
- 2 cloves garlic, crushed
- 1 tsp. crushed caraway seed
- 3/4 tsp. dried marjoram (some use more to taste, maybe 1-1/2 tsp.)
- 1 tsp. salt (more if using beef broth rather than bouillon) or to taste
- 1 tsp. vinegar
- 1 quart beef broth (from bouillon unless you have have stock)
- 1/2 quart water
- 2 Tbsp. tomato paste (adds nice touch and color)
- a couple dashes hot paprika (half-sharp) or cayenne
Sauté the beef, onions and garlic in shortening until golden brown. Remove garlic. Mix together flour and paprika, sprinkle over browned meat and onions, stir well. Add beef broth, deglazing pan, then water, vinegar and tomato paste; stir well. Add caraway seeds, marjoram, salt and hot pepper. Simmer covered for two hours until meat is tender. About 45 minutes before serving, add the cubed potatoes and grated carrots and continue simmering. Add more water if necessary. Serve piping hot. For a spicier variation add chopped chili peppers before serving or use half-sharp hot paprika. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Freezes well, but remove any left over potatoes.
Adapted from the traditional Burgenland recipe found in "The Cooking Of Burgenland" by Alois Schmidl, Burgenland Chef, published by Edition Roetzer 1992, English translation by BB Lehigh Valley Editor, Robert Strauch.